Category Archives: Croatia/Hrvatska

Oluja i nevrijeme

Pozdrav raja!

Moji Purgegri se sigurno pitaju Kakva krvava oluja?! Kakvo krvavo nevrijeme po ovako sunčanom i vedrom danu? U ovom postu se, naravno, radi o reakcijama preko Dunava (i preko Save 😮 ) o obilježavanju Oluje, općenito o Oluji, a i o samom Ratu, a ne o vremenskim (ne)prilikama 😀

Na ovaj post me ponukalo jučerašnje bljezgarenje Tomislava Nikolića, Milorada Dodika i Aleksandra Vučića. Doduše, iskreno, Vučić je ovaj put bio mkay. Njega je ovaj put zamijenio onaj pop s kenjanjem da su protjerani protjerani isključivo zato što su Srbi i pravoslavci i da su im to učinili kršćanska braća.

Ime popa ne znam i tu je ono bitno o postu. Jutrošnji plan je bio da cijeli post popratim linkovima pa tako napišem i ime dotičnog popa; ali, iskreno, ne da mi se u to upuštati. Post će ionako biti poprilično dug. Većina ovdje napisanog je snimljena i onaj tko baš traži potvrdu, neće nikakvog imati problema u pronalaženju izvora. Ostalo je, pak, dostupno u pisanom obliku. U kratko, remember, Google is your friend 😉 …barem ako nisi u Sjevernoj Koreji ×D Ako netko pronađe nešto konkretno što proturiječi ičem napisanim ovdje, neka ostavi komentar (naravno, komentari su općenito dobrodošli) 🙂

Otkud krenuti? Možda bih prvo trebao objasniti zakon akcije i reakcije. Narodski rečeno: kad nekog jebeš, jebeš i jebeš, kad-tad ćeš dobiti po pički od te jebene stranke.

Što se same Oluje tiče, shvaćam srpsku potrebu da ima negativni pogled na Oluju i u njoj vidi samo zločine (kojih je nedvojbeno bilo). Međutim, tvrdnje poput Vučićeve, da je Oluja najveći zločin u Europi poslije Drugog svjetskog rata su krajnje bezobrazne. Nakon svega što su srpske snage učinile u Ratu – od Vukovara do Srebrenice – on ima obraza reći da je Oluja “najveći zločin u Evropi posle Drugog svetskog rata”!

Znači, Oluja je prije svega bila vojna akcija oslobođenja okupiranog teritorija. I zamisli ti, u akciji je prolivena krv! Evo, ja se ispričavam u ime RH što zemlju nismo oslobađali vodenim pištoljima…

Da vidimo dalje, jučerašnji Nikolićev govor na Fruškoj gori je čisti dokaz da se đubre nije udaljilo od četništva kolko je crno pod noktom (nije ni čudo da još uvijek nosi čin četničkog vojvode koliko je meni poznato).

Prvo, što ni nema baš veze s četništvom, nego s običnim bezobrazlukom je Nikolićeva izjava da Oluja nije ništa junačko jer je izvršen napad na nemoćno, malobrojno i slabije naoružano stanovništvo! Pretpostavljam da je Vukovar bio pun komandosa i specijalaca kada su došli hrabri srpski vojinici… Naravno, razlika između Vukovara i Knina (Krajine, općenito) je ta što Vukovar nije bio okupiran, odnosno njegovo sravnjenje sa Zemlje nije bilo u cilju oslobođenja, i da Knin uopće nije sravnjen sa Zemlje. Doduše, prema Nikoliću, Vukovar je srpski grad, pa su ga Srbi “hrabro oslobodili”. Koja je logika da grad koji ideš “osloboditi” sravniš sa Zemlje?!
Također, Hrvatska na početku Rata nije imala nikakvu vojsku i nije imala nikakvo naoružanje što dobro pokazuje kakvo je srpsko “oslobođenje” Vukovara junaštvo i herojstvo bilo… Da, Tomek, jučerašnji mimohod je pokazao pravu snagu hrvatske vojske danas i uvjeravam te da smo imali takvu vojsku 1991., do Oluje nikada ne bi došlo jer tvoji drugovi ne bi uspjeli okupirati ni (kvadratni) milimetar naše zemlje.
I onda ta pičkasta pizda od nikolićevske spodobe, ima obraza govoriti o “paradi srama”!

Sada, ono što ga je “otkrilo”: izjava da je Hrvatska oslobađala teritorij NDH. Prvo, ta izjava govori koliko zapravo Nikolić drži do granica Srbije, Hrvatske i BiH. Jedini razlog zašto sad ne pravi dar-mar je to što Srbija više nema moć. Na kraju krajeva, i danas je izjavio da Srbija nikada neće priznati “ustašku” hrvatsku državu. Dobri primjeri za nemoćnost Srbije su Kosovo i Crna Gora.
Još krajem devedesetih (desetljeća kad je Srbija bila moćna) je Srbija radila dar-mar po Kosovu, a danas?! Kosovo je čak proglasilo neovisnost! A Srbija ne može ništa poduzeti oko toga. Može samo nepriznavati neovisnost Kosova, ali to je to. Slično kao i RS (poslije ću još doći do RS-a), Kosovo funkcionira kao samostalna država. Jedina razlika između Kosova i RS-a je da je Dayton prisilio RS da prizna suverenitet BiH – iako Dodik sere o referendumu – i da, time, međunarodna zajednica prizna postojanje RS-a (ali u granicama BiH što vlasti u RS-u često zaboravljaju…). Mkay, za razliku od RS-a, Kosovo nije umjetna tvorevina i granice Kosova postoje već dugo u povijesti i historiji (sad, jesu li to granice pokrajine ili države, to je već drugi padež). Ipak, ovo nije post o Kosovu.
Prijeđimo na Crnu Goru. Crna Gora je odlučila raskinuti sve (unutar-političke) veze sa Srbijom tek 2006. godine, kada Srbija više nije mogla “burno” reagirati. U prilog tome govori i rezultat referenduma za neovisnost u kojem je svega 55 % građana Crne Gore glasalo za neovisnost. Ipak, Srbija je ovaj, tijesni, rezultat referenduma prihvatila bez pretjeranog gunđanja.
Znači, izjava o granicama NDH. Meni se čini da nečiji predsjednik baš i nije upućen ni u noviju europsku povijest ni u njenu noviju historiju. Predlažem dotičnom predsjedniku da u ruke uzme kartu NDH (bilo onu prije kapitulacije Italije ili onu poslije; može i obje 🙂 ), kartu SR Hrvatske i kartu Republike Hrvatske. Možda onda primijeti kako su granice RH “malo sličnije” granicama SRH od granica NDH.
Podsjetio bih tog predsjednika na jugoslavenski ustav iz 1971. Naime u taj ustav lijepo kaže da se svaka republika ima pravo odvojiti od Jugoslavije unutar svojih granica. Da, R u SRH je republika. Znači, i Hrvatska i BiH (i Slovenija i Makedonija) su proglasile suverenitet upravo nad teritorijem untar granica republike; ali netko je odlučio formirati neke kvazidržave u tim granicama. Ali kada Hrvatska oslobodi svoj teritorij (teritorij od bivše SRH) od takvih kvazidržava, ona “vraća granice NDH”.

Sad da se malo osvrnem na popa s izjavom da su protjerani protjerani isključivo zato što su Srbi i pravoslavci i to još od strane kršćanske braće! Zanimljivo je da ga nije bilo briga kad je “protjerani kršćanski brat” sravnio Vukovar, grad s “kršćanskom braćom”, sa Zemlje i radio dar-mar nad “kršćanskom braćom” po “bratskoj kršćanskoj zemlji”…

Što se samog protjerivanja tiče, činjenica je da nitko nikog nije tjerao. Srbi su slobodno mogli ostati na oslobođenom teritoriju (sam Tuđman je pozvao sve Srbe, koji nisu izravno sudjelovali u pobuni, da ostano u oslobođenoj Hrvatskoj). Hrvatska vojska je došla na već ispražnjen prostor i nije baš bilo nekoga za protjerati. Teze su da bi “ustaške” snage pobile Srbe da su ostali. Tu je problem na dvije razine: prvo, dobrovoljno si otišao bez obzira na razlog, odnosno nitko te nije tjerao; drugo, neki Srbi su ostali i da su svi pobijeni, danas u Hrvatskoj Srbi ne bi bili najveća manjina, odnosno nije istina da bi Srbi bili pobijeni da su ostali. Pogotovo zato što bi da je ostao veći broj bilo teže počiniti i one zločine koji jesu počinjeni.
Iako se prema izjavama srpskih političara čini da oni nisu svjesni gore pojašnjenog zakona akcije i reakcije, Krajiški Srbi su ga bili itekako svjesni i u prevelikom strahu od njega.

Činjenica je da su neki Srbi pobijeni nakon Oluje. Međutim, riječ je o manjem broju (puno manjem od broja pobijenog nesrpskog stanovništva tokom Rata…). To potvrđuje sama demografija: Popisom iz 1991., popisano je 581 663 Srba (12,5 % ukupnog stanovništva) u SRH. Popisom iz 2001. je popisan 201 631 Srbin (4,54 % ukupnog stanovništva) u RH. Iako su Srbi najveća manjina, njihov broj je pao za 350 002. Koliko je od tog broja iselilo, a koliko je ubijeno? Znači, uz sva ratna stradavanja, usprkos zakonu akcije i reakcije, uz sva iseljavanja (sama Srbija govori o abnormalno velikom broju) i uz općeniti pad broja stanovnika (ukupni broj stanovnika Hrvatske 1991. je bio 4 784 265, a 2001. 4 437 460), Srbi su i dalje najveća manjina u Hrvatskoj.

U kratko, umjesto da se Srbija pokrije ušima i šuti o Ratu – ratu u kojem nijedan ni hrvatski, ni bošnjački vojnik nije zakoračio ni (kvadratni) milimetar u teritorij tadašnje SRJ – Srbija još provocira! To licemjerje! Tu seru o politici pomirenja, a onda provociraju sa sranjima poput onog da je “Oluja najveći zločin u modernoj Europi nakon Drugog svjetskog rata”…

Hrvatski političari šalju različite “odgovore” na ove provokacije. Ja imam sam jedan (od samo šest riječi 🙂 ): ODITE U TRI PIČKE MATERINE BEZOBRAZNE!

Sada bih se osvrnuo na jučerašnje pismo (ili šta već je) SNV-a povodom obilježavanja Oluje. Ako zanemarimo “protjerivanje”, tekst je dobro napisan… osim jedne zanimljivosti. Naime, o krajiškim Srbima se piše kao o protjeranim hrvatskim državljanima. Stvarno je zanimljivo kako raju koja je otvoreno zaratila protiv hrvatske države da bi stvorila svoju državu odjednom čine hrvatski državljani
Jedino što uistinu zamjeram SNV-u je da ni Pupovac ni bilo koji drugi član Vijeća nikada nije kritizirao Nikolićevo i slično bljezgarenje. Čak nisu kritizirali ni šešeljevsko govno…

Mislim da je ovo dobar trenutak i da se osvrnem na kamenovanje Vučića u Potočarima. Svojim provokacijama, Vučić je zaslužio da dobije po pički. Komemoracija nije baš prikladno mjesto za to, ali negdje je morao dobiti po pički.
Ipak, komemoracija je baš poetično mjesto. Naime, Vučić uz sve dokaze tvrdi da u Srebrenici nije bilo genocida. Zato je odgovorno tvrdim da on nije ničim pogođen u Potočarima i da uopće nije izvrijeđan 😉
Sam Vučić je relativno dostojanstveno prihvatio incident. Dodik je taj koji je morao srati o atentatu na srpskog premijera koji je organizirao nitko drugi nego bošnjačko vodstvo! Mkay, ili je bošnjačko vodstvo totalno nesposobno (mislim da je olovo malo učinkovitije i od kamenja i od tenisica 😉 ) ili je možda kojim slučajnim slučajem raja popizdila da mućki provokator dođe s “rukom pomirenja” na komemoraciju genocida koji uporno poriče.
Što se ovogodišnje komemoracije srebreničkog genocida tiče, jedna izjava mi je upečatljiva, a to je da je Republika Srpska dokaz da se genocid ipak isplati. Ipak je Dayton, kojim je priznata RS, potpisan nedugo nakon genocida, a Srebrenica, u kojoj je RS počinila genocid, je ušla u sastav RS-a. Ono, kao nagrada za genocid…

Ipak ovo nije post o RS-u (barem ne u potpunosti 🙂 ). Više o njoj u jednom od najstarijih postova na Blogu za istraživanje ruda i gubljenje vremena, postu povezanim s ovim postom, postu potaknutim reakcijama u RS-u na film U zemlji krvi i medaProšlo je “dvadeset” godina… Sam film U zemlji krvi i meda je dokaz zamršenosti BiH danas. Osim očitih kontradiktornih reakcije iz Federacije (u Sarajevu je zbog filma Angelina Jolie proglašena počasnom građankom Grada) i iz RS-a (u Banjaluci je Jolie praktički zabranjeno koračanje po RS-u), moj kolega bloger jaran Sarajlija Muda od Labuda bi vjerojatno već napisao kritiku o filmu da film nije dočekan na nož u pola njegove domovine 🙂

Ipak, mislim da nam je susjedna BiH savršena za prikaz tko su zločesti momci među Hrvatima, Bošnjacima i Srbima, ako već tražimo zločeste momke. Naime, iako se Bošnjaci i mi svađamo, nadmećemo, mećemo si itd., ipak možemo živjeti zajedno. Dokaz za to je današnja podjela BiH: S jedne strane imamo bošnjačko-hrvatski entitet Federaciju BiH, a s druge posebni srpski entitet Republiku Srpsku. Znači, tri konstitutivna naroda, dva entiteta. Budimo realni, jedini razlog postojanja Federacije je postojanje RS-a. Federacija je ta koja koristi obilježja BiH u većini situacija u kojima RS koristi obilježja RS-a. Zapravo, Federacija nema ni službenu zastavu. U Federaciji se uglavnom govori o “Bosni i Hercegovini”, a u RS-u o “Srpskoj”. Evo, i tijekom prošlogodišnjih katastrofalnih poplava koje su pogodile naše zemlje, Dodik je od Rusije tražio pomoć za RS (tko jebe Federaciju…), a većina RS portala je imala linkove Pomozite dijelovima RS zahvaćenim katastrofalnim poplavama, kao da ostatak BiH uopće nije poplavljen. Čak i da nije bio, bilo bi logično da svejedno piše BiH a ne RS. RS portale posjećuju i građani Federacije. Iako su, oni koji su mogli, sigurno pomogli bez obzira što piše – RS ili BiH – ali bi da je pisalo Pomozite dijelovima BiH zahvaćenim katastrofalnim poplavama, u najmanju ruku, izazvalo poštovanje među nesrpskim stanovništvom BiH. Ovako još kada su poplave pogodile i Federaciju i RS…
Istina, dio Rata su se Bošnjaci i Hrvati međusobno tukli, ali smo ušli i izašli iz Rata kao saveznici. Washingtonski sporazum, sporazum koji je zacementirao Federaciju je potpisan godinu dana prije Daytona, u kojem su Federacija i RS konačno definirane. Također, čak i tijekom Hrvatsko-bošnjačkog sukoba, bošnjačkim izbjeglicama u Hrvatskoj nije ništa uskraćeno i prema njima se postupalo jednako kao prije i poslije Sukoba, odnosno kao da nikakvog sukoba nije ni bilo. Nadalje, Herceg-Bosna, hrvatski “entitet” u Ratu je, za razliku od RS-a, tijekom cijelog svog postojanja priznavala suverenitet Republike Bosne i Hercegovine nad svojim teritorijem.

Na kraju da još spomenem plan Z4. Z4 je plan osmišljen u Zagrebu 1994. od strane SAD-a i Rusije. Cilj plana je bila mirna reintegracija Krajine. Ta reintegracija je podrazumijevala priznavanje Krajine kao entiteta više-manje kao daytonskog RS-a. Međutim, Krajina je Z4 glatko odbila. To dovoljno govori o težnji za mirom sa srpske strane… Također, pokazuje kako je Oluja zapravo bila uspješna. Osim oslobođenja, nedugo nakon operacije je potpisan Dayton kojim je formalno oformljena RS slična zamišljenoj Z4 Krajini. Srbi su prihvatili rješenje za BiH za koje nisu htjeli ni čuti godinu i pol dana prije jer su vidjeli kako bi zapravo mogli dobiti po pički i u Bosni ako nastave jebati. Odjednom je entitet postao savršeno rješenje…

P.S. U Srbiji i RS se hrvatski Dan zahvalnosti (današnji dan – 5.8.) od ove godine obilježava kao Dan sjećanja. Da, trebalo im je dvadeset godina da ga počnu tako obilježavati (to je valjda ono “prošlo je dvadeset godina”)… Iskreno, nije me pretjerano briga kako se u Srbiji obilježava 5.8. Kao što rekoh razumijem, srpsku potrebu da na Oluju gleda negativno, ali takvo obilježavanje današnjeg dana u RS-u, gdje su Hrvati konstitutivan narod… Još jedan dokaz da si RS svašta dopušta!


Objavljeno 5.8.2015. navečer u 9:11

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Pelješki most

Znači, nakon pripojenja Krima Rusiji, Putin reče: Gradit ćemo most između Krima i Krasnodara (ruski kraj “preko puta” Krima) kako bi nova ruska republika bila spojena s ostatkom Rusije!
Tako od referenduma za pristupanje Krima Rusiji nije prošlo ni tjedan dana i sama budućnost poluotoka je neizvjesna, a Putin već gradi pelj… krimski most. I to kako? Izjava podsjeća na Gorbačovljevo lupanje cipelom o govornicu (iako je Gorbačov taj koji je Krim dodijelio Ukrajini) – Gradit ćemo i šlus. Invensticija košta tri milijarde zelembaća, ali mi ćemo napravit most! – i zašto? Zato što je fizičko povezivanja teritorija jedne zemlje od strateškog značenja te zemlje (iako ne postoji kalinjingradski most 😀 ).

Putin ima para? Prvo, Putinove pare dolaze od krađe građanima. Tome u prilog ide činjenica da bi Rusija i njezini građani zbog svojih prirodnih bogatstava trebali biti najbogatiji na svijetu. Ipak, većina ruskih građana jedva sklapa kraj s krajem, a korupcija vlada zemljom (ipak smo Rusi i mi Slaveni 😉 ). Kruže glasine da je 60% novaca uloženih u olipmijske igre u Sočiju (inače na Igre je potrošeno više od 50 milijardi dolara što čini OI u Sočiju najskupljima do sad) završilo u tajkunskim džepovima. Drugo, izgradnja mosta između Krima i Krasnodara je puno skuplja od izgradnje pelješkog mosta zbog same činjenica da je udaljenost između Krima i Krasnodara nekih 4 km, a pelješki most bi bio dug 2,5 km. Treće, izgradnja pelješkog mosta ne bi izazvala negodovanje susjedne zemlje i međunarodne zajednice kakvo će izazvati izgradnja krimskog mosta. Zapravo, zbog napete situacije izazvane odcjepljenjem poluotoka od Ukrajine, koje nitko osim Rusije (još) ne priznaje; baš bi izgradnja mosta mogla biti “kap koja će preliti čašu”.

U kratko, iako je Putin korumpiran kao i ovi naši levati, on kaže Gradi se most i most se gradi bez ikakvih pitanja (unutar Rusije) jer je to od strateške važnosti za njegovu zemlju, a naša politička đubrad… Jebe se njima što najljepša hrvatska obala nije fizički povezana s ostatkom zemlje… Njima to još super dođe za predizbornu kampanju!

I još samo da prokomentiram konstantno Putinovo poistovjećivanje situacije na Krimu s proglašenjem neovisnosti Kosova:
E koje je to licemjerno đubre. Razumiješ ti mene, sad kao Ako Kosovo može, može i Krim? Upravo je Rusija (čitaj Putin jer se nitko u Rusiji ne može popišat bez njega) najveći protivnik priznavanja Kosova u UNu jer odcjepljenje Kosova narušava teritorijalni integritet Srbije, a sad tu kenja da ako je Kosovo neovisna država (koju on ne priznaje kao neovisnu), i Krim može bit neovisan. Postoje dvije velike razlike između Krima i Kosova: Prvo, udio Albanaca u ukupnom stanovništvu Kosova (preko 90%) je znatno veći od udjela Rusa u ukupnom stanovništvu Krima (ni 60%). Drugo, Kosovo je samoproglašena samostalna država, odnosno nije pripojeno Albaniji (još) ili nekoj drugoj zemlji. Znači, velika razlika između Kosova i Krima: Kosovo – SAMOPROGLAŠENA SAMOSTALNA REPUBLIKA; Krim – ANEKSIRANI TERITORIJ!
Također, na Kosovu ne živi autohtoni narod koji se ništa ne pita (Tatari na Krimu).

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Kuterevo Bear Sanctuary

Kuterevo Bear Sanctuary is a brown bear sanctuary in Lika region of Croatia (da, lički međedi 😀 )
Although the sanctuary is away from Northern Velebit National Park, it is part of the nature park Velebit (there are two national parks in the nature park: the afore mentioned Northern Velebit and Paklenica).

The average life span of a brown bear is 30 years. They, usually, don’t live longer than 10 years in wild in Lika because people hunt them and as they grow older, they’re slower, less agile and their reflexes weaken.
It takes them 6 years to mature.

The sanctuary is divided in small and big bear enclaves.

I managed to take a decent picture only of a small bear.
My godmother visited the sanctuary shortly before me and saw the big bears doing their thing 😉

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This gal is awesome. She’s 3 years old. She kept growling while cleaning her paw 😀

Volunteering

When we entered the sanctuary, we heard a girl telling tourists things about the bears in English. At first, we thought she was just a local guide talking to tourists. Then I asked her a question (in Croatian). She did answer it, but not fluently and she had trouble understanding the question. Turns out she’s a volunteer from Bulgaria.

Kuterevo is full of volunteers from around the world.

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Sigs of volunteers (click on the image to enlarge it)

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Čudne riječi u ovom žutom streličastom trokutu…

You can check the official website of Kuterevo volunteers here.

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BEWARE

Since my homeland is a favourite vacation spot to many Europeans, I feel obliged to warn tourists, as well as my own kin, not to go to a certain “restaurant” or whatever the thing is.

The place is called Bistro Manjan (Croatian). Seems they rent suites too. I can’t vouch for the quality of their suites, but their “food”…

Now, about its location. The thing is located in Krasno. Krasno is a village, and by itself nothing special though there are a couple of churches to see in Krasno. However, the village is like a hub to the national park Northern Velebit, Kuterevo Bear Sanctuary, the town of Senj (I blogged about Senj last year, Nehaj Fortress to be precise) and other places of interest. Therefore, Krasno, and thus its restaurant(s), is often visited.

Anyway, we should have realized where we had come as soon as we had been given a stained table cover (yes, the stain does kinda say “STAY THE FUCK AWAY FROM THEIR SUITES TOO”). Well, we were too busy playing cards when the waitress put it 😀 and since the stain was rather small, we thought “What the hell, everyone can miss a thing or two”.
We ordered French fries, skinless sausages (ćevapi) and burgers. The fries weren’t fried at all. If I had burned the next day and couldn’t go to the beach because of that, I think I would’ve returned and burned the place down! Especially since, I ate the things during a heat wave. Now, the meat.. hard like metal, no oil nor fat on it (a burger fell on Mom’s shirt and left no stain…). The sausages were just enlarged (though they were quite small for skinless sausages) crap of my guinea pig.
The only reason we didn’t throw the crap to the staff was because we had been too hungry.

In short, if you ever find yourself in Krasno, STAY AWAY FROM THE SHITHOLE CALLED MANJAN [THAT’S   M A N J A N   (the sign goes Bistro   M a nj a n)].

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You have been warned…

U kratko, ako ste u Krasnom, NE IDITE U BISTRO MANJAN NI POD KOJU CIJENU!!!

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Žumberak

Žumberak is a (low) mountain range that boarders Croatia and Slovenia. The highest peak (1181 m) is at the border between the two countries. The peak, much like the range, has two names – Croatian (Sveta Gera) and Slovenian (Trdinov vrh).

Slovenian name of the mountain range is Gorjanci. You will come across both names (i.e. Žumberak and Gorjaci), so you know it’s the same thing.

Interaction between Croatia and Slovenia is strong on Žumberak. It declined following the dissolution of Yugoslavia (Croatia and Slovenia became two independent countries meaning border control began). There are even cases of someone’s house being in Croatia while his field is in Slovenia.
More problems arose in 2004 when Slovenia became an EU member because Slovenian border became the border of the European Union.
Nevertheless, there are a lot of daily migrations.
Things should go for the better because Croatia became an EU member on 1st July, meaning the border between Croatia and Slovenia is a formality again.

Local dialects on both sides of the border are very alike, if not the same.

Croatian part of Žumberak, along with the neighbouring Samobor hills, forms a nature park (Žumberak – Samoborsko gorje).

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Budinjak

There are remains of several settlements throughout history in the park.

Budinjak was a prehistoric settlement. The only remain of Budnjak is a graveyard in the form of tumuli (burial mounds). The park has a 4 km long path of tumuli.

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A reconstruction plan of the biggest tumulus on Žumberak (click on the image to enlarge it).

Greek Catholics

When people say someone’s a “Catholic”, they usually mean Roman Catholic. Indeed, more than 80 % of Catholics are Roman Catholic, but there are 28 Catholic Churches in the world. The thing they all have in common – other than Christianity, of course –  is that they accept the authority of the pope (the exception are Old Catholics who honour the pope, but do not accept him being infallible – I’m not even sure whether they’re regarded as a Catholic Church by the Vatican).

Greek Catholic Church is the second “largest” Catholic Church.

They differ from the Roman Catholic in the following (notable) ways:
Their priests are allowed to marry and have families;
Priests can wear beards (though I haven’t seen a Greek Catholic priest with a beard such as Orthodox priests have);
They often use Old Church Slavonic in their services and they prefer the language over Latin.

In short, they’re a blend of Roman Catholics and Orthodox.

Anyway, despite Žumberak being in the middle of a Roman Catholic sphere (both Slovenia and Croatia are predominantly Roman Catholic), Žumberak is an island of Greek Catholics. There are still a lot of Roman Catholics in the region. Croatian cardinals Alojzije Stepinac and Franjo Kuharić came from Žumberak.
So, how did Greek Catholics end up on Žumberak anyway?
In the 16th century the Military Frontier was established along the south border of the Habsburg Empire to prevent Turks from conquering Habsburg lands. Žumberak was part of the Frontier. To protect the Frontier, Habsburgs offered people land in exchange for immediate military action to defend the Frontier, thus the Empire, from the Turks. Many people heeded the call, including Greek Catholics, who came to Žumberak.
Along with, their religion, they kept their štokavian dialect, which is very different to the local kajkavian dialect(s). When the priest, who we talked with, spoke, I just thought he reverted to standard Croatian (also štokavian) until he told us that that’s how they speak.
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A Greek Catholic church on Žumberak (kinda like an ordinary Roman Catholic church from the outside)

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Inside of the church
Note a few things:
The altar is hidden;
The book on the table is set so the priest is turned back from the adherents while reading the book (yes, very likely the Bible);
Croatian national symbols (the chequy and red-white blue tricolour) are present, probably ’cause Greek Catholics of Žumberak want to emphasize they’re Croatian to their Roman Catholic brethren [even the caron of Ž*(umberak) is a heart shaped red and white chequy).
*Ž has more significance. As I said, the language Greek Catholics prefer is Old Church Slavonic. That is a dead language (i.e. no native speakers), like Latin. The language used Glagolitic and Cyrillic alphabets, but not Latin. There are no living languages that still use Glagolitic alphabet, but many, especially Slavic lingoes (most notable Russian, still use Cyrillic. Croatian (and Slovenian* for that matter) can, also, be written in (Serbian) Cyrillic. Yet stylistic Ž is written in Latin (it’s Cyrillic equivalent is Ж) in a Greek Catholic church. Like every other** diacritic in Serbocroatian languages (and Slovenian), Ž was introduced into the alphabet by a Croatian linguist and it spread from Croatian to other Serbocroatian lingoes (and Slovenian).
*Both lingoes are Slavic [and the distinction of the northern Croatian dialect(s) and Slovenian is often purely based on ethnicity]
**Đ (stroked D, not Eth) is the exception being introduced later by a Serbian linguist

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Glagolitic text inside the church (no, I can’t read it) Continue reading

Magical world at Rijeka’s doorstep

Originally posted on Diana’s Escapes on May 16th, 2013; Reblogged on 2nd June 2013 at 10:22 GMT; Use Time Zone Converter to quickly convert the time

Diana's Escapes

At the beginning of May, I took a field trip with my friends. It didn’t require a lot of money, long planning and packing, and yet it was a wonderful adventure.

Rijeka is a town deeply connected with water, in all of its forms. These ties are manifested in a number of town’s urban elements: from its toponym and motto (English translation of ”Rijeka” is ”river”), coat of arms (two-headed eagle standing on top of a container from which water spills out), the fact that the town is a major Croatian port and that its industrial and urban development has for ages been connected with the sea and Rječina, the river that flows through Rijeka.

In the town’s hinterland there is a whole magical world of nature that was shaped around the river flow. Few years ago, a walking path following the river was arranged, some 20 km long, that…

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Field trip – academic year 2012/2013

Yeah, I blogged about last year’s trip.

I’m gonna combine English and Croatian, like the last time.

This year we went to Istria. Although we did have a good time, the trip could have and should have been a lot better. The trip lasted four days instead of the usual five days. To people from Zagreb, a four day trip to Istria is like a picnic.
We were only in Croatian part of Istria and despite having more than enough time, we didn’t go to, in my opinion, many places. Those places include Savudrija, at the Croatia-Slovenia border. Not to mention that we could have crossed the border. Okay, I guess Slovenian border control would fuck us in the ass, since Croatia is becoming a EU member on 1st July, so they’re going to use their power while they can. I even brought my binoculars to look at Piran over the border, but noooooo. There was a group or two that went even to Trieste… Furthermore, we only passed by Motovun (yeah, movie fans might have heard of Motovun film festival), didn’t go to Umag etc.

Little bit about Istria

Istria is a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea currently divided between three countries: Italy (Trieste), Slovenia (Koper and Piran) and Croatia. Most of the peninsula is in Croatia where most of Istria forms one county. Notable extension is Opatija which is pretty much part of Rijeka and administrating a town from one county that is merged with a city from another would be screwed.

The peninsula is named after Histri, an ancient Illyrian tribe that inhabited it. There are a lot of remains from before the classical age (we were on one such remains – Monkodonja).

Ethnically, Istria is quite diverse. Although the ethnicity pretty much follows borders between countries, different ethnicities are present all around the peninsula. There is a large Slovenian community in Trieste and Italians have a big community in Croatian Istria. Italians generally left a big imprint in coastal Croatia. Many coastal towns have dual Croatian-Italian name despite the number of Italians in a particular settlement (e.g. Umag/Umago, Poreč/Parenzo, Pula/Pola, Rijeka/Fiume, Senj/Segna, Zadar/Zara, Split/Spalato etc.). While Italians constitute only about 5 % of county’s population, they have a strong community in the county, so Italian is a coöfficial language and most signs in the county are bilingual (Italian-Croatian).
The bilingualism is real bilingualism in this case because Italian and Croatian differ a lot (i.e. there’s no way in hell a person speaking Italian and a person speaking Croatian can understand each other without the knowledge of the other lingo although the local dialect has been influenced by Italian a lot). Unlike the crap about introducing Serbo-Croatian bilingualism where Serbs constitute a large minority. Serbian and Croatian are totally mutually intelligible and we (Croatians, Serbs, Bosniaks etc.) can understand each other perfectly. Okay reading Serbian Cyrillic might be a little troublesome to a Croatian, but other than that… Introducing bilingualism there is pure political game, especially since people in those areas speak pretty much the same, whether Croatian or Serbian, except, of course, those who accentuate the difference.
Another interesting ethnicity in Istria are Istroromanians. They mostly speak Croatian now, but there are still a few speakers of Istroromanian. A professor kept talking about them in the bus and I was so excited about meeting them, but he ended the speech with We’re not going to see them... He did say that they’re lingo is the most endangered one in Europe, but I think there are a few Sami lingoes that have no more speakers than Istroromanian…

Now that I said something about Istrian ethnicities, I can continue with its history. Well, I won’t say much anyway 😛 After Histri, the peninsula was colonized by Romans (the arena in Pula is one of the few preserved Roman arenas). Istria was the first stop of Croatians upon the great migration of Slavs. Specifically, the river Raša (although pronounced the same as Russia, the river has nothing to do with Russia). The river served as political border for many centuries while today there is a planned town extending to both sides of the river. Although that was certainly not intentional when the town was being built, the town of Raša is now a symbol of Istria as a whole.
Ironically, Istria wasn’t part of Croatia until Italian capitulation in WWII in 1943.

After Italian capitulation, Istria had to wait till 1954. Until then it was uncertain whether the peninsula would be returned to Italy or given to Yugoslavia as a spoil of war. The city that was kept in suspense the most was Trieste, but since we didn’t even go to Trieste, screw Trieste 😀 Let’s just leave the city for another time.
In the end, it was decided that Italy would keep the area with Italian majority while Yugoslavia would be given the area with Slav majority (by the way, Yugoslavia is spelled Jugoslavija in Slavic lingoes – jug means “south“, -slav- is for Slavs and -ija is the ending used often in the end of country names –> literally meaning Land of South Slavs). Then, there was just the matter of dividing Istria between Slovenia and Croatia. Again, ethnicity was the main factor. After the division of Istria, many Italians left Yugoslav Istria. The deal was finalized in 1975. Since, ethnicity was the main criterium in the division of Istria, even if Trieste did go to Yugoslavia, the city would’ve been incorporated into Slovenia, not Croatia. Especially, since Slovenia got the area south of the city.
Because Tito sealed Istria’s fate in Croatia, he is stilled loved in Istria (you really can’t go to a town without a Tito square) despite the opposite situation in the rest of Croatia.

Upon the breakup of Yugoslavia, Slovenia kept the part of Istria they’d had in Yugoslavia. Likewise, Croatia kept the part we’d had.
We still have a border issue between Slovenia in Piran Bay (we often call the Pirate Bay, Piran Bay 😀 ) though.

The symbol of (Croatian) Istria is goat. Our guide in Poreč told us the symbol is goat because a goat is Istrian’s first love and you always remember your first love 😉

Before continuing, here’s a map of Istria:
Istria
We went to Rijeka, Rabac, Raša, Pazin, Grožnjan, Rovinj, the Brijuni Islands, Poreč and Pula

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Ah, cola flavoured Fanta, my favourite drink on the trip 😀

This is the first time I hadn’t brought a backup book with me on a trip and the first time I read the one which I had brought  😡
Zato sam, dok sam čekao trajekt za Brijune, na kiosku kupio dva Alan Forda 😀

Do you know how the ceiling in old castles and stuff is low? They say that’s the case because people were shorter in the past. Well, based on the bus we travelled with, I’ve come to a different conclusion. Tolkien seriously misunderstood hobbits when he said they rarely lived in castles. I’m pretty sure old castles are their doing and that they secretly make buses now. Most of the time, they get the human hight correctly, but every now and then they screw up. I rode such a screw-up. The ceiling was so low that even I bumped my head a few times and I’m short. Many people had to literally crawl to move around the bus.
Either that or the bus was a prototype of a Jeffies tube. Take your pick.

Rijeka

Rijeka is the largest port of Croatia and the third largest Croatian city. Like many Croatian settlements, its origins go to the classical age.

During Austria-Hungary (Austria–Hungary was a dual monarchy, where Austria and Hungary had equal power despite the monarchy being constituted of many other lands), Rijeka served as (main) Hungarian port [both Austria and Hungary are landlocked (to this day, an expression He doesn’t care that Hungary is landlocked is used in Croatia to say that someone has no care in the world), so they had to use Croatian coast instead, which they just declared as being “Austrian” or “Hungarian”]. Therefore, Hungary invested a lot in Rijeka.

Things go interesting after WWI when, after lots of debating, the city got split into two parts. The part north of the river Rječina was incorporated into Italy. The part retained the name “Rijeka” (officially Free State of Fiume, later Italian Province of Fiume, Fiume is the Italian name for Rijeka to this day). And the part south of the river was incorporated into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. That part was named Sušak. That part of the city is still called Sušak.
One would assume that the Italian part was more prosperous since Yugoslavia was a shit hole. However that was not the case because Rijeka was just one of the many Italian ports, so it wasn’t important to them. Sušak, was, on the other hand, a very important port for Yugoslavia, so the kingdom invested a lot in the port.

Now, a bit about Rječina. Rječina is the river Rijeka was named after. Rječina means “an enormous river” (while rijeka itself means “river”). When hearing that “an enormous river” flows through Rijeka, one would assume that Rijeka lies on the Nile or the Amazon. In fact, Rječina is quite small.

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The River Rječina

Rijeka is settled in between hills. That creates orographic effect meaning Rijeka is as rainy as London ×D Yes, it rained cats and dogs while we were in town…
Zapravo, u Rijeci stalno pada kiša zato što je Šegota u svoj udžbenik napisao da u Rijeci pada puno kiše i sad se svi ravnaju po tom, uključujući i vrijeme 😡

Being settled in between hills is also a big problem for the city to expand. Although the city extends a lot to the nearby hills today and it is pretty much merged with Opatija (which we didn’t go to…), hills are still an obstacle. They resulted in high buildings. Such urban structure, actually, impairs the old city structure, but it is necessary. Note, though, that a “high” building, in Croatian eyes, is 10+ stories. If a building has 20 stories in Croatia, we say that it’s enormous.

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Panorama of Rijeka

Read more about Rijeka and Rječina on Diana’s Escapes.

Pazin

Pazin is a town pretty much in the centre of Istria County. Because of that it is the capital of the county even though Pula is the centre of population and activities. Actually, vehicles in the whole county have PU on their licence plates. This is the only case in the country that letters of the county capital are not used at all on licence plates.
Speaking of the centre of Istria, there is a settlement nearby Pazin called Sveti Petar u Šumi (literally St. Peter in Forest). The saying says that Sveti Petar u Šumi is the centre of the world because, the village is geographically in the centre of Istria, Istria is geographically in the centre of Europe and Europe is the centre of the world.

Since the town is settled in a sort of depression, the temperatures are usually lower than in the rest of Istria (not counting the mountains Ćićarija and Učka, of course.
Speaking of temperatures, it was cold throughout Central Europe when we were on the field trip. Kinda like May last year. There was even snowfall on the peaks of Učka (probably Ćićarija too), but did we go there? Nooooo. I had to settle with this picture of the snowy Učka peak…

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Snow on Učka

Speaking of cold weather. Everything seems to be fucked up. I played a bit with Yahoo! Weather today. Said it was 23°C in Tromso, Norway; 25° in Kiruna, Sweden and 26° in Rovaniemi, Finland while it was only 12° here (Zagreb, Croatia). Tromso, Kiruna and Rovaniemi are in Sampi. Just Google Earth Sampi and Croatia (or Central Europe in general since it’s currently cold throughout Central Europe).
Vrijeme se urotilo protiv Šegote 😀

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Malo su pobrkali Magnusa i Bunkera, ali važno je sudjelovati 😉

Pula

Like I said, Pula is the most populace town in Istria (okay, Trieste is more, but I’m talking about Croatian Istria here) and the centre of all activities.

The town is most known for one of the few still preserved Roman arenas. The arena is twice less in size than the Colosseum in Rome.

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The arena of Pula

Like Rijeka served as the most important port of Hungary in Austria-Hungary, Pula was the most important port of Austria. The town served mainly as a military port.

The flag of Pula is similar to a Swedish flag that saw too much Sun 😀

Brijuni Islands

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A seagull on top of the ferry that took us to the islands.

Brijuni are a group of small islands. They are one of eight Croatian national parks.

They have served as a resort of Croatian,and Yugoslav presidents before, including Tito.
Actually the national park is all about Tito and Koch (the guy who got rid of malaria that was killing everybody on the islands).

The park officially has a safari, but that’s no safari. The animals are those given to Tito by foreign dignitaries and their offspring. Okay, species are exotic (like zebra), but they’re all in cages and you tour the park in a tourist train (referred to later simply as chu-chu). It’s just a wannabe safari zoo.

Seagulls really pissed me off. They kept chilling in cages of other animals while I was in the chu-chu and couldn’t take any pics. When I went out, the bastards just flew away, this is the best pic I got:

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The other legacy of Tito is “his” museum. The museum has two parts. One is full of various pictures of the guy. The other of the stuffed animals Tito “got”.

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U, sunce ti kalajisano! Izet Fazlinović bi dao cijeli svoj crni štek za ovakvu sliku s drugom Maršalom ×D

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Nije ni čudo da je lik bio strah i trepet divlje Juge kad je furao ovakvog ljubimca…

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Yaser Arafat and Tito. Look what Arafat is looking at…

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DI SI GAZDA?!
Tito i Castro na cugici 😉

Now about the other part – stuffed animals. The guide told us that the museum has animals, that Tito had got, stuffed after they died. Well, unless lions are half a metre long… Furthermore, some winter animals (e.g. white hares), that would find even the winter in Brijuni too hot, are in the museum

Nevertheless, I just had to take this pic:

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Fuck, yeah! 😀

Poreč

Although we were stationed in Poreč the whole time, we, at least officially, visited the town on the last day.
Although Istria is Croatian-Italian bilingual, the hotel we stayed in had only channels in Croatian, English and German. Indeed, the hotel was full of Jerries (and English). Judging by the licence plates on the cars parked outside the hotel, they were mostly Bavarians, Baden-Württembergians and Austrians. The only lingoes that could be heard in hotel were German, English and Croatian (in that order). I only heard a couple speaking Italian the last day.

The guide told us that the town (with the population of 17 500 at best) has more than 30 roundabouts. Indeed, we saw quite a few roundabouts, but since he, also, said that the high concentration of aerosols (yes, pollutants) in the air, makes the town more attractive; I come to doubt his wisdom…
He, also, told us that Poreč is the only town with Roman cardo (north to south) and decumanus (east to west) streets that still carry the names Cardo and Decumanus.

The most popular sight of the town is Euphrasian Basilica listed UNESCO world heritage.

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Entrance to the Euphrasian Basilica

Baredine Cave

Baredine Cave is a geomorphological monument of nature. The climb in the cave (actually fall ×D ) proved to be too much for me. I only reached the first touring station. Animals that inhabit the cave include an interesting endemic species – olms. They inhabit deeper levels of the cave, so I didn’t take the pic myself:

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An olm

Rovinj

Before talking about Rovinj, I’d just like to mention Monkodonja, remains of a Bronze Age town.

Here are some pics:
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Well, I can’t say much about Rovinj since professors just said We’ll meet at the bus in 5:00 PM. Please be punctual. I don’t wanna say who was late, as usual. All I’m going to say is that students were punctual, like we were told 😉

Well, maybe a pic:

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That’s it, from Rovinj we headed home.
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